Lay of the Land

Athens continues to be nothing short of A-mazing! On Sunday evening Afro (Afroditi) and I headed into the city for a lovely stroll around downtown, giving me my first look into the city while gathering my bearings. When we ascended out of the train station and walked out into the yellow twilight colors, I heard the words, “look up”, and there it was in between 2 tall buildings… The Acropolis! Still four or five kilometers away (~2 - 2.5 miles) on top of the hill in the middle of town, there she was- the ancient city in all her glory!  The majestic colors of sundown only added to the magnificent glow coming from the tattered columns of the Parthenon.

 

We continued down that street into the city center, also known as the Monastirali . We wondered through the square, most vendors were closed, and I couldn’t help but notice the graffiti, or “tagging”, EVERYWHERE!  Not just words, letters, and what I could guess would be negative phrases, but striking and unique pieces of art, everywhere you look in this city- on every storefront, alley, and structure- the awe-inspiring talent is non-stop!  My favorite phrases, as translated, tagged on the walls were, “Everything you fear you learn from TV” and “Thank Money, we have god”. Just some things to think about when a country such as this, as historical, rich with culture and character, finds itself in a crisis such as today's. Could the crisis be that of character in cause and of financial in effect?

 

We grabbed a bite for dinner, a savory, spicy kebab with Tziziki for me! I am in LOVE with the Greek food!  I can’t get enough! Afterwards we continued to meander through the Plaka. The Plaka is the area between the ancient city walls and the city center of downtown. Here the artists of town fashion themselves as the energy that breathes through the town. Ghetto next to lavish houses in structures built over the centuries- gypsies, hippies, aristocrats, academics, and the like saunter throughout the village type atmosphere.

As we neared the top of the hill we came across a University building, there was a line and tickets being sold.  “To what?”, we asked.  “Socrates Now” was the answer. Its an 80-minute monologue by a Greek/American man from NYU, a partner University to this one in Athens acting out Plato’s “Apology”.  Plato, Socrates most famed student wrote the “Apology” following the persecution and murder of his teacher. The “Apology” outlines, from Socrates point-of-view, his defense to the indictments he faces for opening young minds and “corrupting the youth” of Atheana. A tremendous production, simple and clever, captivating and engaging, with a nice touch of free flowing wine and beer during the performance, Afro and I enjoyed our front row seats! Following the performance the floor was opened for a discussion lead by the actor- How to apply Socrates philosophies to today? With a crowd of Americans and Greeks and Greek-Americans all experiencing the “Global Crisis”, placid is not a word I would use to describe the discussion session.  However, I would use insightful and thoughts provoking as an accurate description.  The free wine helped.

Unfortunately we were unable to stay to the end of the discussion as we had to catch the last train home to the suburbs.

Athens – A More Traditional View

It was Monday morning and there was a lot to do! A whole ancient world waited!  I spent the day. and the next two, cruising around Athens, getting my footing, taking loads of photos, and enjoying the history beneath my feet.  

Visiting the Acropolis was HOT! The stifling heat did not hold me back though as I climbed that hill, walking the path of millions before me, up to the top. Passing Dionysus Theater while reading about the ruins and structures which were present throughout the ages was a great beginning, and made the climb “up” seem more like a walk “around”.  There were 2 colors visible once I reached the top, white and blue. The deep blue sky lit the background for the white marble and rubble that remained in every direction. Over looking the city glitters of silver from solar panels and heating systems atop the cities white dwellings met the eye.  On and on and on, square abodes of the Mediterranean sort were surrounding.

The Acropolis Museum is apparently closed on Mondays and I had to return another day for that. If you ever go, please go to the museum before the Acropolis! Then you will know more of what you are looking at while on top of the ancient city.  As it were I did it a bit backwards and my interest was still held in awe.

The Museum is overwhelming.  When at first you start looking at every unique piece and reading its history, you clearly feel as if you will be there for 8 hours reading the same basics over and over. Individually each piece becomes a bit repetitive.  But when you take your eyes up and open them to the whole room, the shear magnitude of the place will put a glint in your eye with a smile on your face!  The white room provides vertical lines of sight everywhere. Column after column, with statues rising up- some in multiple pieces, non whole- the artistry is outstanding. Of course they do not allow photography within the confines of the Museum. Of course I tried to execute my slyness (inspired by my owe-so-sneaky nieces Julia and Erin as they think they are ;) ), and take a photo from above without the curators noticing. Here is the only somewhat decent shot I got before I fled the scene. Damn clicking noise of the shutter opening and closing! 

 

Adventures downtown continued in the National Gardens outside Parliament (where 30 – 40 police sit vigilly all day with bulletproof shields- a new feature of the city since the riots began), through the Olympic City of Zeus, which had closed at 3 (everything here closes so early for a city with daylight until 9pm!) and back down to the Monastirali for a little more window shopping. Greek treasures are everywhere!  I was also able to visit the Planetarium in another part of the city and watch an IMAX film on evolution of our planet. One ear heard English through the one earpiece given to you while the other heard the Greek coming from the public speakers. 

Afro and I took a few evening meals together between her studies (she is finishing up her Masters in Energy this month, how nice of her to host a guest during such a time!) and she has begun teaching me the Hellenic alphabet. Funny thing, I didn’t even realize I already know the Greek alphabet. My sister Katie taught it to me at a very young age as she had to know it for her Greek Sorority at University. I had totally forgotten I knew it, letter by letter. Also, it took me 2 days to realize I recognized 2/3rds of the letters on every sign. I am just so used to seeing them in mathematical equations, not in real words, that they looked foreign to me when in reality I have used a portion of them for years!  This week 1 – 10 and the alphabet, next week I’ll be fluent! Or I’ll continue trying anyway ;)

After wrapping a few things up and collecting the things I may need on the island, I am ready to go!  7 full days in Athens have been exactly what the doctor ordered. A few kite/beach days of simplicity, a few days perusing the city of Athens, getting ahead in work, and finalizing personal items, time, and space (as I will have none of my own once I reach the next chapter in Paros) and I am off!

Watching the port melt into the golden sunrise over Athens I sit in a comfortable “Captain’s chair” aboard the Blue Star Ferry’s Delos vessel. After some shut eye over the next 4 hours a new chapter begins and I can’t wait!  Paros, are you ready for this?  Barlow, are you?!! 

Islands in The Med from the deck of the boat: