Lay of the Land

Athens continues to be nothing short of A-mazing! On Sunday evening Afro (Afroditi) and I headed into the city for a lovely stroll around downtown, giving me my first look into the city while gathering my bearings. When we ascended out of the train station and walked out into the yellow twilight colors, I heard the words, “look up”, and there it was in between 2 tall buildings… The Acropolis! Still four or five kilometers away (~2 - 2.5 miles) on top of the hill in the middle of town, there she was- the ancient city in all her glory!  The majestic colors of sundown only added to the magnificent glow coming from the tattered columns of the Parthenon.

 

We continued down that street into the city center, also known as the Monastirali . We wondered through the square, most vendors were closed, and I couldn’t help but notice the graffiti, or “tagging”, EVERYWHERE!  Not just words, letters, and what I could guess would be negative phrases, but striking and unique pieces of art, everywhere you look in this city- on every storefront, alley, and structure- the awe-inspiring talent is non-stop!  My favorite phrases, as translated, tagged on the walls were, “Everything you fear you learn from TV” and “Thank Money, we have god”. Just some things to think about when a country such as this, as historical, rich with culture and character, finds itself in a crisis such as today's. Could the crisis be that of character in cause and of financial in effect?

 

We grabbed a bite for dinner, a savory, spicy kebab with Tziziki for me! I am in LOVE with the Greek food!  I can’t get enough! Afterwards we continued to meander through the Plaka. The Plaka is the area between the ancient city walls and the city center of downtown. Here the artists of town fashion themselves as the energy that breathes through the town. Ghetto next to lavish houses in structures built over the centuries- gypsies, hippies, aristocrats, academics, and the like saunter throughout the village type atmosphere.

As we neared the top of the hill we came across a University building, there was a line and tickets being sold.  “To what?”, we asked.  “Socrates Now” was the answer. Its an 80-minute monologue by a Greek/American man from NYU, a partner University to this one in Athens acting out Plato’s “Apology”.  Plato, Socrates most famed student wrote the “Apology” following the persecution and murder of his teacher. The “Apology” outlines, from Socrates point-of-view, his defense to the indictments he faces for opening young minds and “corrupting the youth” of Atheana. A tremendous production, simple and clever, captivating and engaging, with a nice touch of free flowing wine and beer during the performance, Afro and I enjoyed our front row seats! Following the performance the floor was opened for a discussion lead by the actor- How to apply Socrates philosophies to today? With a crowd of Americans and Greeks and Greek-Americans all experiencing the “Global Crisis”, placid is not a word I would use to describe the discussion session.  However, I would use insightful and thoughts provoking as an accurate description.  The free wine helped.

Unfortunately we were unable to stay to the end of the discussion as we had to catch the last train home to the suburbs.

Athens – A More Traditional View

It was Monday morning and there was a lot to do! A whole ancient world waited!  I spent the day. and the next two, cruising around Athens, getting my footing, taking loads of photos, and enjoying the history beneath my feet.  

Visiting the Acropolis was HOT! The stifling heat did not hold me back though as I climbed that hill, walking the path of millions before me, up to the top. Passing Dionysus Theater while reading about the ruins and structures which were present throughout the ages was a great beginning, and made the climb “up” seem more like a walk “around”.  There were 2 colors visible once I reached the top, white and blue. The deep blue sky lit the background for the white marble and rubble that remained in every direction. Over looking the city glitters of silver from solar panels and heating systems atop the cities white dwellings met the eye.  On and on and on, square abodes of the Mediterranean sort were surrounding.

The Acropolis Museum is apparently closed on Mondays and I had to return another day for that. If you ever go, please go to the museum before the Acropolis! Then you will know more of what you are looking at while on top of the ancient city.  As it were I did it a bit backwards and my interest was still held in awe.

The Museum is overwhelming.  When at first you start looking at every unique piece and reading its history, you clearly feel as if you will be there for 8 hours reading the same basics over and over. Individually each piece becomes a bit repetitive.  But when you take your eyes up and open them to the whole room, the shear magnitude of the place will put a glint in your eye with a smile on your face!  The white room provides vertical lines of sight everywhere. Column after column, with statues rising up- some in multiple pieces, non whole- the artistry is outstanding. Of course they do not allow photography within the confines of the Museum. Of course I tried to execute my slyness (inspired by my owe-so-sneaky nieces Julia and Erin as they think they are ;) ), and take a photo from above without the curators noticing. Here is the only somewhat decent shot I got before I fled the scene. Damn clicking noise of the shutter opening and closing! 

 

Adventures downtown continued in the National Gardens outside Parliament (where 30 – 40 police sit vigilly all day with bulletproof shields- a new feature of the city since the riots began), through the Olympic City of Zeus, which had closed at 3 (everything here closes so early for a city with daylight until 9pm!) and back down to the Monastirali for a little more window shopping. Greek treasures are everywhere!  I was also able to visit the Planetarium in another part of the city and watch an IMAX film on evolution of our planet. One ear heard English through the one earpiece given to you while the other heard the Greek coming from the public speakers. 

Afro and I took a few evening meals together between her studies (she is finishing up her Masters in Energy this month, how nice of her to host a guest during such a time!) and she has begun teaching me the Hellenic alphabet. Funny thing, I didn’t even realize I already know the Greek alphabet. My sister Katie taught it to me at a very young age as she had to know it for her Greek Sorority at University. I had totally forgotten I knew it, letter by letter. Also, it took me 2 days to realize I recognized 2/3rds of the letters on every sign. I am just so used to seeing them in mathematical equations, not in real words, that they looked foreign to me when in reality I have used a portion of them for years!  This week 1 – 10 and the alphabet, next week I’ll be fluent! Or I’ll continue trying anyway ;)

After wrapping a few things up and collecting the things I may need on the island, I am ready to go!  7 full days in Athens have been exactly what the doctor ordered. A few kite/beach days of simplicity, a few days perusing the city of Athens, getting ahead in work, and finalizing personal items, time, and space (as I will have none of my own once I reach the next chapter in Paros) and I am off!

Watching the port melt into the golden sunrise over Athens I sit in a comfortable “Captain’s chair” aboard the Blue Star Ferry’s Delos vessel. After some shut eye over the next 4 hours a new chapter begins and I can’t wait!  Paros, are you ready for this?  Barlow, are you?!! 

Islands in The Med from the deck of the boat:

Off on a New Adventure! Magnificent Greece!

BOOM! I’ve hit Athens.  And just like that, after 3 planes, 3 delays, and a glorious day in London, I was wondering what in the world I was going to do after my passport was stamped. It was 11pm, I had a headache from the 2 Peroni’s at lunch in London, and I had absolutely no idea where I was going. No Euro’s in hand (had to charge 1 Euro for an airport cart), no working sim-card providing Internet access, who knew if the tourist desk would still be open or how to not get ripped off getting downtown to find a hostel, or at least an internet shop where I could see if anyone had responded to my Facebook queries of getting in touch with someone in Athens.  My Plan A had fallen through… albeit a week prior.

But first, getting there!

My flight from Philly to Newark, NJ was 2 hours late!  What?!  I could have taken the train quicker and not be cutting it so close to my London flight! It was a no-go without removing my luggage, I surely wouldn’t have time then to check it back in and make the flight.  I would have to wait and pray my flight didn’t get moved back any later. As it were the plane came in without further delay, and we hopped on.   All 2 of us. Everyone else had been moved onto different flight plans. The flight attendant sat in the back with us (where we had to sit to balance the plane) and cracked jokes, obviously preferring working for Continental before the Continental/United switch.  I was able to find a way for him to provide 2 beers, free of charge, to the 2 of us sitting in the back, “easier done when we were continental” he said. “Well the plane is 2 hours late and may cause me to miss my London flight, I think customer service would right it off.”  With a smile he handed us each a beer.

Running down the terminal I arrived at the beginning of boarding for London. I even had time to duck in and use the lu before final boarding was called. The ticket attendant was Filipina, naturally we spoke for a bit, then the girl behind me was talking of backpacking in England, and all felt right with the world again.

Lunch in London!

After a 4-hour sleep, arrival in drizzly London was an hour late.  An old friend from University in Adelaide met me at the airport, 5 years it had been since we last saw each other (unfortunately we forgot to get any pictures!).  Picking up right where we left off, I enjoyed a tour around Westminster. Having lunch outside near the river with Westminster castle in sight we were not minding the trickle as we caught up. Starting when I left Saigon I have been seeing old friends from “College Days” at every stop.  All have been fabulous and loooong overdue.  Each has been tremendously valued and this was no different.  It is interesting to see yourself in the eyes of 5 years again and again by those who saw you best.

After a great stop-over, a bit of freshening up, it was back to the airport.  Checked in and practically walked right onto the plane, filled with Greeks. Welcome to Greece I heard myself saying.  Slept the whole way.

Woke up, turned on the phone. 3G not working. Must get Greek sim-card.  “Hope they sell them at this airport and this late I night”, I heard myself saying.  Reminding myself as I collected the luggage, “Now worries Barlow, you’ve done this countless numbers of times. You will get to your destination and put your head down before your night is over, wherever that may be. First things first, get your luggage, clear immigration, and see what resources are outside and open to you in the airport.” If worse came to worse my plan was to get in a cab, and hope he wouldn’t rip me off while he took me, “downtown”. Which, with current economic standings, isn’t exactly a place you want to wander too long with all your belongings.  But have trust in the right people, and you will get there without too much worry or time.  Be aware, be open, be aware.

And Her Name was Afroditi!

There wasn’t a single official at immigration, walked right through and was quickly scanning the lit signs to see what was still open.  Then it happened… I heard my name, “Anny?” she said. “Afroditi!?!”. “Yes” with a giggle and I felt like 1000 worries had been lifted off my shoulders.  For a friend had given me an ‘Afroditi’s’ number and said just call her and she will tell you where to go.  But a working phone I did not have. Never in all my hopes and dreams did I expect to see the wonderful woman at the airport there to pick me up! For heaven’s sake, I hadn’t even told anyone which flight I was on or where it was coming from, only that I was arriving around 10.30pm…

Afroditi had gotten that message through my friend Paula (already instructing at the island I am going to, Paros) and took her chances. As it were, there was only the one flight arriving at that time, so she took a guess to go to that section of immigration and wait for the London flight. Awesome!

taken with an iPhone

As we giggled out of the parking lot about how it all worked out and I was still in a bit of happy shock, there were a group of 3 behind us in the parking lot, a French woman and a Greek man were picking up a Japanese woman from the same flight in which I had arrived.  They were popping Champagne and had proper glassware for all, including us! Sitting in the Athens Airport parking lot we shared short biographies and laughed and learned of each others international interests and had great fun praising Greece despite the economical crisis they were living in.  “Man!” I thought, “This has been a great 15 min!”.  And then we were off! Afroditi was taking me to her “home” kite spot to see what was happening for the rest of the night. On the way I learned there wasn’t 1, but 3 options of places for me to stay on couches by friends of friends. I have to say, I LOVE the kite community!

I Haven’t Been to Athens Yet

Since then I have just been kiting East of Athens, about 40 min away from downtown, and having a marvelous time!  The spot here has clear blue water, rocks on which you walk out, then reef with sea urchins (don’t put your feet down) and two flat islands downwind. 

Not being on the water since my ankle sprain in Thailand in March, my sea legs, and ankle, were a bit shaky.  Following the advise I learned from those experienced at this spot I stayed upwind of the islands- too well upwind.  On the second I tried to land on my weak ankle (idiot idea in front of the islands) and lost my board. A wave comes and boom, my board and I are thrown at the island, and its rocks. Scraped up the left leg a bit, only one deep gash, and took a nice hard hit on my tail bum, the kind where it hurts to sit still, 3 days later.  But without delay, grabbed my board, got on it, and got out! Had no more problems, got back into the muscle memory program for an energetic following 2 hours nailing hooked tricks and feeling my ankle get stronger, and then tired.  Had a great first session with scenic mountains outlining borders around the see-through water of the Mediterranean Sea.

Met local crew throughout the night, watched Greece soccer loose to Germany and finished up a photo project for a magazine.  Day 1, a success!

Day 2, thought about staying off the water for my cuts, couldn’t. Went in for an easy and short session, “Only ½ an hour”, I told myself and I was to be riding/trying a strapless surfboard anyway, slow moving trying to get up, “I’m not going to be going anywhere fast if I am only in for an easy 30 min. sesh. Boy, was I wrong! Once up and moving, and moving fast, I wasn’t about to go in! I was having the time of my life on that board. Decided I’d take the day off “tomorrow, to see the city” and keep on riding today. It was a blast! My deep cut got a good washing, probably too good. “Oh well, nothing but the city for the next few days so it will get a chance to get a good heel” and on I rode gaining more speed upwind and carving on a few little bumps of waves by the end, I found my footing and a new favorite!

Later that evening Afroditi and I went with her friends by boat over to one of the flat islands and camped. Looking up at Scorpion, The Big Dipper, and shooting stars, we could view the lights of Athen’s beach suburbs surrounding us, and the thought, “life doesn’t get much better then this” crossed my mind.  Of course so did the faces of my nieces, nephews, and the family I do miss dearly.  I wish you were all her to see!

The Plan

Today is the next day; I am to spend it in the city. It is 3.30, I’m now finishing my blog, and then off I am for my first evening in Athens! With my cut and beaten left leg, adding in my tailbone and the sore abs from yesterday’s strapless learning experience, Afroditi’s couch looks pretty good right now.  But I won’t! I will make it out- Athens here I come! J

I LOVE THIS PLACE!